Tools of the Trade.Last week was a major sewing week for
The Serven Clan. The goal? Complete all costumes for
The Jamestown 400 by a reenactment on Saturday (pictures to follow in a later post).
Because we were unable to find exact patterns to create our 1607 Jamestown Era costumes, we decided to try our hand at drafting. I had attempted some pattern drafting several years ago, but not had too much success.
First, we started by measuring the person with seven basic measurements. Then following the simple instructions from
The Renaissance Tailor, I charted their measurements on trusty brown paper.
A little tape never hurt anyone.If we ran out of room on our paper, we just added more. : )
Paper pieces complete thanks to Trader Joes.Pattern Drafting is definitely an art and a science. There is a part that is mathematical: pencil, paper, ruler, and tape.
Cutting out the bodice from the toile pieces.But then, there is a part of pattern drafting that is quite artistic.
Once we had the paper pattern charted, we made a toile of interfacing, placed it on the person, and continued fitting it to them. [
Editor's Note: We did not take pictures of this portion of the experience--protecting the innocent, etc. : )].
This is the point when you would get out scissors, hack off various parts, move seam lines, and draw all over the interfacing with various arrows, measurements and scribbles. Once you finish the fitting, you take those messy pieces, trace out new toile pieces (which we continue as the finished pattern) and cut out from your fabric.
Main pieces for Rebecca's bodice (left to right): Back bodice, front bodice, caplet, sleeve.Historical sewing has some interesting differences when compared to modern sewing. If you are a seamstress at all, you will notice the different shapes of the pieces. On the bodice itself, there is no underarm side seam. Instead, this is moved to the back and is curved following the muscles in the back to the point on both sides of the spine. The shoulder seam drops behind the shoulder creating an illusion to make the shoulders seem wider. Also, the actual sleeve does not have an under arm seam; rather the seam is behind the arm (running under the elbow).
My trusty machine.For many years, all my sewing projects were done on Mom's high school sewing machine. The tension just got too much for me with all the "sewing-machine-turned-hungry" experiences [
Editor's Note: Pun intended]. Buying this simple Bernina in 2001 was the best purchase I ever made! Countless hours of fruitful and non-frustrating sewing have been done with this wonderful piece of machinery.
I just took it in for a tune up, the first since I had purchased it--it has worked very faithfully through many, many projects (modern clothes, War Between the States, turn of the century, home decorating, altering ready made garments, and various and sundry other projects).
On the road to completion.We basted together the front and back pieces to make sure we were on the right track--looking good.
Sarah sewing eyelets on her bodice.After construction of the garment, now was the time for handwork! We had 18-20 eyelet holes to hand sew on each of the 4 sister's bodices.
Beth hand sewing on her chemise.Earlier in the week we had completed petticoats (skirts) and chemises (undergarments). We used these as the foundation to draft the patterns.
While some work, others play. : )Notice the afghan on the end of our bed!
The little boys set up a story-hour while the rest of us girls were sewing. Listening to a book on tape is always a good way to spend an afternoon. For us ladies, it provided a nice diversion while we worked away.
Lydia knitting (on a non-period project). : )